Wisdom of The Somms Article By Robert Whitley
Wisdom of the Somms
By Robert Whitley
October 8, 2019
"When the Sommelier Challenge was conceived in San Diego more than a dozen years ago, the profession was undergoing a renaissance. The image of a snobby sommelier full of condescension (never really an accurate portrayal) was melting away as a generation of young, eager wine professionals embraced the quest for advanced and master sommelier status.
What struck me as founder and director of the challenge was the remarkable thirst for knowledge exhibited by the first participants. Several wrote afterward thanking me for organizing such a splendid blind tasting.
Tasting blind, or unaware of the producer or price of the wine, is a useful tool in the ongoing education of sommeliers. The challenge allowed them to do just that with a broad cross-section of wines from around the globe.
It also levels the playing field for entrants. Wines are judged solely on the basis of quality, as opposed to reputation. The end result (and all of the results are available at SommelierChallenge.com) demonstrates a number of truths that cut against conventional wisdom.
First, the idea that price is the final arbiter of quality is false. The Sommelier Challenge awards silver, gold and platinum medals, platinum being the highest rung on the ladder. At the 12th annual challenge, last month in San Diego, numerous platinum winners cost $100 or more retail. And there were a number of platinum wines below the $20 mark. Bottom line: It's what's in the glass that matters.
Second, there is no question superior terroir produces outstanding wines, but that doesn't mean Monterey and Temecula and France's less desirable regions, such as the Languedoc, can't produce wines on equal footing with those from Bordeaux, Burgundy and the Napa Valley. This week's tasting notes include a petite sirah from Temecula Valley and a syrah from Monterey that are world-class. Each earned a platinum at the challenge.
Finally, there is a lesson in all of this for the rest of us. Preconceived notions about wine often prevent us from experimenting with less renowned wines, depriving us of untold tasting experiences that could deliver untold pleasure. Sometimes it's good to sit back and let a passionate sommelier be your guide.
Tasting Notes
Wallis Family Estate 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon 'Seraphim,' Diamond Mountain District ($175) — This is the Wallis family's hotrod cabernet from Diamond Mountain, and it definitely has the horsepower for the role. Rich and dense, with impressive depth, this is a darkly fruited cabernet that has that rare combination of power and elegance. Notes of ripe cassis and black fruits dominate. There's a touch of wood spice and ample tannin for the long haul, though the wine drinks exceptionally well at this young stage. Rating: 97."
https://www.creators.com/read/wine-talk/10/19/wisdom-of-the-somms
Oct 15, 2019 at 4:18 PM
PermalinkTRB Cover of Wine Spectator November 2018
Dec 12, 2018 at 11:52 AMTRB and October 2017 Issue of Town and Country Magazine
Wallis Family Estate wines get a nice mention In the October 2017 issue of Town and Country Magazine about Thomas Rivers Brown.
Nov 10, 2017 at 10:29 AMVineyard to Bottle
Chris Girling from Cornell wrote an interesting piece on : "Conversion Factors: Vineyard to Bottle"
Nov 10, 2017 at 10:07 AMSommelier Challenge Platinum Award With a Score of 97
Nov 9, 2017 at 12:50 PM
Wallis hits the radar of Wine Spectator
Edward Wallis is proud to announce the feature of Wallis Family Estate in the November 30, 2016 Issue of Wine Spectator. After 10 years of making consistently high rated Cabernet Sauvignon from the Diamond Mountain District, he hit the radar of WS.
Four To Watch: A diverse group of vintners alter the Napa landscape
Authors: Augustus Weed, Aaron Romano Issue: November 30, 2016
WALLIS FAMILY ESTATE
A diamond in the rough
Edward Wallis spent 23 years on Diamond Mountain, at the northern end of Napa Valley, before realizing the potential of his 85-acre estate. "I just wanted to live in a beautiful place," says Wallis, 64, who purchased the property in 1975, fresh out of college. The Bay Area native made the move with the intent of being a sculptor. Instead he shifted his focus to real estate development in Napa.
It was his work in real estate that led him to the Diamond Mountain property, which he fell in love with. On the estate is a stone castle built in 1906 and a carriage house built in the late 1800s. The castle offers a peek into the past, with redwood paneling, stained-glass windows, an iron stove and period furnishings. Wallis spent years restoring and maintaining the historic property before deciding to plant vineyards in 1998. "The valley led me to this business," says Wallis, who notes that being surrounded by great properties, including neighbor Diamond Creek Vineyards, was a tremendous influence on him.
Diamond Mountain is one of the lesser-known appellations in Napa Valley. Much of the area's vineyards are tucked in the valleys of the foothills, shrouded by towering redwoods and sprawling oaks that limit afternoon sun exposure, leading to the rugged tannins that Diamond Mountain wines are known for. Wallis' vineyard is one of the few in the area that doesn't fall into afternoon shade. "We pick based on tannin ripeness, and don't macerate as long in the cellar," says winemaker Thomas Brown, explaining that while he typically macerates wines from the valley floor for 16 to 18 days, he only macerates the Wallis wines for 14 days.
The Wallis Cabernets illustrate the muscle of the region, showing richness and density while still retaining a sense of finesse and polish. "We wanted to make something drinkable in its youth, but still with the Diamond Mountain qualities," Wallis says.
Wallis admits that he's still in the brand-building phase, but the wines are helping to tell the story of the property, which was previously planted to vineyards and once functioned as a Sherry production facility and export business. Wallis recently had both buildings on the estate accepted into the National Register of Historic Places, allowing him to share his piece of Napa history with visitors just as he shares his wines.
WALLIS FAMILY ESTATE Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain District Seraphim 2013
93 $175
250 cases made
Nov 23, 2016 at 12:52 PMAntonio Galloni First Look of 2015 Vintage
2015 Napa Valley – First Impressions by Antonio Galloni
The 2015 Napa Valley Cabernets I have tasted from barrel so far are positively stunning in their beauty. Despite a year with considerable challenges and low yields, 2015 is shaping up to be a vintage of opulent, voluptuous wines with real personality and character.
The 2015 Growing Season
Drought conditions and higher than average temperatures during the 2014/2015 winter caused the soils to warm up early, even more so than Napa Valley’s growers had seen in 2013 and 2014. Cool weather in May during flowering had some effect in lowering yields, depending on the site, but more challenges lay ahead.
Throughout the year, temperatures were higher than normal. “In 2015 we had 26 days over 100 degrees, whereas in a normal year we might see 10-12, including a stretch of five consecutive days with temperatures of 104 degrees,” Lou Kapcsándy told me. It was a similar story at Joseph Phelps. “We had 20 days over 100 degrees. Dehydration was a real issue,” winemaker Ashley Hepworth reported.
The most critical period arrived in mid-September. I had tastings scheduled for Monday September 14. The day before, Howell Mountain was evacuated because of a serious threat from a raging fire in neighboring Lake County. It was during this stretch of several days that temperatures were unrelentingly hot. “We started picking on September 9. Temperatures were above 100 degrees for four out of the five days we picked, and on the last day we had to deal with intense winds from the fires in Lake County.” Lisa Togni relayed. Some producers picked in September, but more than a few also waited things out until October, when conditions improved dramatically.
The 2015s From Barrel
I spent several weeks in Napa Valley this past spring tasting through the 2015s from barrel. Spring is one of my favorite times to taste in Napa Valley because it is the best time to see the wines in a finished enough state to get a sense of the year, but before blending, which means at many properties it is possible to taste parcel by parcel or variety by variety. In many ways, tasting young Cabernet from barrel in Napa Valley during the spring is much more similar to tasting young Burgundy than Bordeaux as the wines have often not been racked or touched at all, whereas in Bordeaux, for example, the blends need to be mostly finished by that time in order for the wines to be presentable for en primeur.
So far, the 2015 Napa Valley Cabernets I have tasted are stunningly beautiful. Two thousand fifteen is a classic Napa Valley vintage built on opulence, texture and voluptuousness. Interestingly, the wines also appear to have a good deal of freshness as well, especially for a warm year. Unfortunately, yields are down around 30-35% across the board. Although weather during flowering was less than optimal, growers cite dehydration as the main culprit for lower production.
To be sure, the estates I have tasted so far represent la crème de la crème in Napa Valley. Given the quality of fruit I saw in the field, I expect the 2015s will be less consistently brilliant across a wider range of producers than in truly exceptional years like 2013. Still, there is no question that there is plenty to look forward to. The best 2015s are racy, exciting wines that are hard to resist, even at this early stage.
Estates Tasted: Abreu, Ampère, Blankiet, BOND, Bryant, Casa Piena, Colgin, Continuum, Dalla Valle, Dana Estates, Futo, The Grade, Harlan Estate, Hardin, Harris, Hobel, Jones, Kapcsándy, Kinsella, Mending Wall, Ovid, Outpost, Joseph Phelps, Piper, Pulido-Walker, Promontory, Rivers-Marie, Round Pond, Rudd, Saunter, Screaming Eagle, Seaver GTS, Steltzner, Staglin, Stone the Crows, TBD (formerly Reverie), Philip Togni, VHR – Vine Hill Ranch and Wallis.
Subscription Required for Vinous.com: http://vinous.com/articles/2015-napa-valley-first-impressions-jun-2016
Jul 7, 2016 at 2:31 PMThe 2014 Vintage
The Wallis Family Estate 2014 vintage is successfully bottled! A big thank you to the Mending Wall Winery team. This beauty will be available Spring 2017, stay tuned.
Jun 30, 2016 at 11:34 AMThe Wallis Buzz
One of the many fun aspects of producing your own wine is discovering the internet buzz that is circling about your wine in the many different styles of wine blogs and professional aritcles.
Here are a few of the discovered write ups about Wallis Family Estate:
This is a man on the quest to visit all of the Napa Valley wineries- http://www.napawineproject.com/wallis-estate/
From our Texas supporters- http://hemingsway.org/wine-notes-1/2016/4/10/wallis-estate
Guilty by association of TRB: https://www.palatexposure.com/people/a-whos-who-list-on-the-california-wine-scene/
Uncovering the Best Values of California Cabernet by Antonio Galloni: http://vinous.com/articles/uncovering-the-best-values-in-california-cabernet-oct-2015
Manifesto, Making it Count: Wallis Family Estate: http://www.manifesto.asia/post/467/Making-it-Count-Wallis-Family-Estate
Apr 12, 2016 at 10:31 AMCabFest 2016
Wallis Family Estate is looking forward to participating in CabFest Napa Valley 2016, which is set for March 4 – 6 at the Napa Valley Performing Arts Center at Lincoln Theater in Yountville. It is our hope that we will see you there! CabFest is a three-day, luxury lifestyle event that shines a spotlight on Napa’s signature wine varietal: Cabernet Sauvignon. The full weekend includes recording artist Mat Kearney live in concert, wine symposiums, wine celebrity and author Karen MacNeil. Wallis Family Estate will be featuring out 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon.
Mar 1, 2016 at 12:26 PM